Deep Gorge, Murujuga National Park. The piles of red rock, home to a large colony of Rock Wallabies, were quite striking. Pity we couldn’t locate the rock art.
We left Point Samson later than usual and headed back down the road to Karratha to check it out. A modern mining town with all the facilities. From there we went to Dampier for lunch and to check out the port operations. We left town and went out to the North West Gas Fields Visitor Centre but its closed until next week so no joy there. It seems strange to see this large industrial complex on such ancient landscape. We visited Hearson Cove which is another great place to watch the Stairway to the Moon and little out of there was Deep Gorge. Unfortunately the signs leading to the Rock Art in the area have faded to nothing so no luck in finding it in the Gorge. We headed back to the highway where we are camped at the Robe River Rest Area (along with a couple of dozen grey nomads)
A fully laden iron ore train leaves a trail of dust as it trundles along the Tom Price – Karratha Railway Line destined to be loaded onto bulk carriers at either Dampier or Point Samson
Oh what a day – travelling along the Hammersley Iron Railway Access Road from Tom Price to Karratha (just approximately) We travelled about 155 kilometres on a really well maintained gravel road that ran next to the railway line. We played tag with a fully laden iron ore train for probably 20 kilometres before it escaped us due to speed restrictions on the road. Its fascinating to see the cloud of iron ore dust as the train ploughs through the countryside, which in itself is spectacular. We made good time along this track and ended up having lunch at Roebourne before heading out to Cossack, Wickham and Point Samson.
“Stairway to the Moon” – from the sandfly capital of WA, Samson Point
We set up camp at the Point Samson Caravan Park before heading back to Cossack to witness that West Coast spectacle of the “Stairway to the Moon” where the full moon shining on the mud flats at low tide creates (in some peoples eyes) the stairway effect
Dales Gorge, Karajini National Park. It looks about 30 – 40 metres deep with a trickle of water coming over the Fortescue Falls. Stayed in the nearby camping ground overnight and had brief look around the National Park this morning.
We travelled all the way to Newman through the picturesque Pilbara landscape. In some respects this area is more attractive than the Kimberlies. We refuelled, had a brief look around the town and bought some supplies before heading back to Karajini National Park travelling about 160 kilometres back over the way we had come. We stayed at the Dales Gorge Camping Ground last night then visited a couple of the sites today – Dales Gorge and Weano Gorge. I guess they probably look spectacular in the wet but otherwise they’re just long holes in the ground (and I can’t bring myself to climb the 50 metres down to the bottom and back out again – what can I say, I’m not fit). We left Karajini and headed into Tom Price for lunch and a look around. We found out that we can take the railway access road from Tom Price through to Karratha which is a well maintained gravel road – we just needed to view an induction video and apply for the free access permit. We decided on that note that it was July so we had better have a shower and booked into the very exclusive Tom Price Caravan Park ( you must have money to get in).
Jenny and Melva perched in the Marble Bar at Marble Bar Pool, Marble Bar if you get what I mean
Left De Greys River free camp at around 8.30 and travelled the picturesque route down to Marble Bar. The drive starts out with wretched plains of poor quality flore and transforms into iron hore hills and gorges, something that I never realised existed in the Pilbara. We caught up with the Coopers in Marble Bar itself, they were refuelling when we arrived so we ended up leading them out to the sites that included the old Comet Gold Mine. the Flying fox Lookout and the Marble Bar and Chinaman Pools.
After all that activity we went to the pub (The Ironclad Hotel) that features in the Lipton Tea adv. and had lunch and a beer before heading back to Port Hedland. The Coopers went their own way in what I suspect maybe a very quiet car (trouble in paradise). They are apparently going to head straight back home. Meanwhile we checked out Port Hedland briefly (the size of the iron ore trains is absolutely incredible), refuelled then headed out to a free camp 40 kms out of town. We intend to head towards Newman and the Karajinni National Park tomorrow.
The Mother of Pearl Altar and surrounds at St Mary’s Beagle Bay. The Granddaughter of one the ladies who carried out the intricate inlay was at the church explaining the different symbolism that her grandmother had taught her.
We made the trip into Cape Leveque along an absolutely smashed road. We caught up with the Coopers in at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and later back at camp at Roebuck Plains Roadhouse Caravan Park. We managed to rattle the top off the Drambuie (which was shaking around so much it even managed to spill out the cupboard even though it was still upright!) – that explained why Jenny was licking the floor all night : ) It rattled the screws out of the shower door, the top off my coffee pot and the enthusiasm for corrugated red roads out of the pair of us.
We left at 8ish this morning with the Coopers bringing up the rear. They caught up again at Spitfire Roadhouse just as we were leaving. We refuelled at Pardoo Roadhouse before making our way here – I just love all these exotic sounding names. My in car camera was rattled into submission so I have had to do a complete reboot on that and thankfully it seems to be working again. Tomorrow we are off to Marble Bar – nobody mention the heat.
No prizes for guessing which one is the camel. Jenny and her German backpacker starting the Cable Beach camel ride.
We did a Town Tour this morning which was very informative and gave us the opportunity to visit a few sites we may not have visited otherwise. After lunch we just got things ready for take off tomorrow – filling the water tanks, stowing gear, before heading out to buy some supplies and then heading up to Cable Beach. Ah the joys of watching the wonder of nature as the sun goes down, glistening on the 500 4wd parked on the beach. Jenny enjoyed her camel ride then we sat and waited for the sun to go down before heading back to camp.
Off to Cape Leveque tomorrow and Jenny has just heard from Melva that the Coopers will also be heading down there and heading down the coast on Sunday the same as we had planned…
Broome Jetty. A cruise ship was due in today and the locals were meant to be putting a special market on in Chinatown. Either the cruise ship didn’t arrive (we never spotted it) or they didn’t bother with the market.
Spent the better part of the day in the town centre today, checking out the shops and meeting up with the Coopers for coffee. Did over the pearl shops (bought nothing, stunning jewelry and equally stunning prices), art galleries and kitchenware (its so special in Broome). Later we checked out a camping store and still couldn’t buy anything. The Town Beach market is on tonight but, according to our bus driver from yesterday, the food stalls are the only good thing.
The town was certainly busy with tourists. According to one source the population of Broome is around 12 to 17 thousand but it swells to 60 thousand in the peak period. Cafe and bar prices reflect central city locations and all the caravan parks are full with a constant turnover of recreational vehicles entering and leaving the town area. Personally I don’t see the attraction other than the tourist brochure shots and must sees. I’d rather somewhere like Derby where you get to meet the locals.
We’ve been languishing in Broome since Tuesday, enjoying pleasant temperatures but its a bit windy. We joined a tour out to the Willies Creek Pearl farm yesterday for an informative look at the cultured pearl industry. We were given a well formed introduction to the methods of seeding oysters and the techniques of farming cultured pearls, after which we enjoyed a nice lunch in their cafe. Following lunch was a brief boat trip out into the lagoon to view the oyster racks on the long lines. We were also shown how the workers descale, debarnacle the oysters while aboard the shell cleaning boat doing 10 hour shifts. Good money but hard work. After that display it was back to the showroom in an attempt to sell us some pearls. Jenny succumbed and bought some cheap fresh water pearls from Asia. Today we went into the town centre to hit the shops. We met up with the Coopers for an iced coffee.
The view from our caravan park
Melva is still struggling with her arthritis, her hands and wrists are extremely swollen and she appears to be in a great deal of pain. We suggested she increase her pain medication but it looks like they may just visit the pearl farm and then head off toward home. If she is really bad, I think Laurie will take her straight back down the Stuart Highway to home. It would be quicker that going down the coast. We have another tour tomorrow around the town and Jenny is doing the camel ride at Cable Beach (because that’s what you ave to do in Broome) tomorrow evening. We will depart Broome on Saturday and head out to Cape Leveque. How long we stay depends on how long it takes for us to get out there and what we find when we get there. A fellow traveller has suggested an alternative route to head down to Marble Bar so we may check that out after the weekend. The adventure continues.
A pearl extracted from the oyster during the demonstration at Willies Creek Pearl Farm
Made our contribution to the Broome tourist industry by going on a tour of the Willies Creek Pearl Farm. The tour included lunch and a complimentary drink (but no complimentary pearl) Interesting presentation with plenty of tactile experiences made for a worthwhile tour. Even got to see one of Nigel’s girlfriends (Nigel being the 4 metre crocodile that frequents Willies Creek and Cable Beach area)
Naturally Jenny succumbed to the charm of the Pearl Shop even though she explictly told me you don’t buy pearls there.
From our caravan park looking back toward the Port of Broome
Short run of 110 kilometres today. We pulled into a roadside stop and Jenny was able to get onto the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park and get a booking for 4 nights. We called into the Visitors’ Information Centre and got all the pamphlets that we could carry before heading to the Caravan Park to set up and start the ring round of making bookings. Jenny got a text from the Coopers to say that they had a puncture in their caravan tyre and had to stop at Halls Creek today to get it repaired. Its quite windy here but warm. Facilities are old but clean.
