Sunset with moon, Overland Roadhouse, Hamelin Pool W.A.
We left the Overland Roadhouse after a night and morning of strong, cold winds. The wind was extremely strong as we headed south only abating just before Geraldton. The terrain along this section of road is quite dismal, the wind not helping. A lot more tourist vehicles along this section of road. We refuelled in Geraldton then headed out along the Geraldton – Mount Magnet road toward Mullewa.
Our roadside camp east of Mullewa W.A.
We stopped at a roadside rest area to set up camp. It was not the greatest camp, to close to the road to light a fire and close enough to the road and railway line that we could hear all the train and road train movements during the night. We didn’t stay out to long, the temperature dropped dramatically, and we had witnessed another batch of Starlink satellites pass over (14 in totals).
We left Gascoyne Junction after a brief drive around the town. They have excellent facilities, no doubt provided as part of the 2010 flood recovery. The whole township was relocated after that flood and they now have a brand new sports field, primary school and caravan park come tavern.
The Carnarvon Foreshore View
We made our way back to Carnarvon to refuel and have lunch by the foreshore again, before heading back south toward Geraldton. We crossed the 26th Parallel again so we’re officially out of the North West of Australia. We continued down to the Overland Roadhouse where you can freecamp on unpowered sites (well, bare red dirt actually) we will stay here tonight and then start meandering back inland from Geraldton. A real treat tonight – roadhouse means chips, so its eggs, chips and sausages for dinner tonight. Life is wonderful.
Our camp at the Overland Roadhouse, Hamelin Pool, W.A.
We headed straight down to Carnarvon in the hope of finding the elusive spare tyre. We arrived at 11.30 and fortunately the Tyre Service was open and had the right sized tyre. We were back on the road in half an hour. We had lunch on the foreshore before heading out to Gascoyne Junction, approximately 160 kms inland. Interesting new territory, mainly cattle country. The caravan park is surprisingly modern and up to date. Probably due to the 2010 floods which wiped out the old township, so all the roads and buildings are pretty much new. This is a stopping point for people heading out to the Mount Augustus National Park. Unfortunately its several hundred kilometres of unsaved roads out to there and back and we aren’t really prepared for that type of stuff this trip.
We left our roadside camp and headed into Paraburdoo then continued out to the North west Coastal Highway, travelling over roads we hadn’t been on before. The views were spectacular, The Pilbara is such a beautiful part of Australia. A lot less traffic on this section of road and we got to have morning tea surrounded by picture scenery. We refuelled at Nanutarra Roadhouse before continuing south, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn heading south.
Sunset at Lyndon River Rest Area, W.A.
It was a long day of driving till we got to our camp at Lyndon River Rest Area Freecamp. It was a beautiful night and we sat watching the stars in balmy weather. No need for a fire tonight!
We left Newman after doing a bit of grocery shopping and continued north to Tom Price. This area of the Pilbara is always spectacular, particularly when you turn onto Karijini Way, the hills are just something else. Combined with the ghost gums along the roadside it looks like an Albert Namatjira painting.
Our lunchtime view, south east of Tom Price
We had a roadside stop for lunch and the view was just spectacular. We moved on to Tom Price in the hope of finding that elusive replacement tyre but to no avail. All we could do is refuel and head out the road for a roadside camp approximately 40 kms west of Paraburdoo. We will see what awaits us there.
As our pursuit of a replacement spare tyre had failed in Meekatharra, we decided to head to Newman from our camp on the Gascoyne. Sadly it was to no avail as all three tyre services didn’t have the correct size tyre and it would take at least a week for one to be freighted in. This doesn’t really suit so we will keep trying every tyre service we come across. I suspect it will be easier to find one on the coast road as there are more Sprinter and VW motorhomes along that road.
Our view last night at The Gascoyne River South Branch
We decided to stay at the “caravan park” on the edge of Newman. It has shower facilities and a laundry etcetera and I’m in definite need after scurrying around under the van extracting the spare tyre (which was also covered in brake dust) besides it’s our wedding anniversary today so it will be nice to have some comforts. We don’t have power or grass, so I guess the toilet and shower are our luxuries for tonight.
Our view tonight from Yurlu Caravan Park, Overflow B
We had great night at the pub last night, excellent quality meals a tad on the big side. Bob found his coveted Mixed Grill so he was happy. We stayed there until around nine before heading back to our free camp in the RV Park. This morning we left Cue a little later than we would normally depart a town, but this one has caught our imagination. We cruised around the few streets in the town checking out the historic buildings before heading into the Op shop for the mandatory poke around then off north again (we had to let an extra wide load go through first – it was a day of wide loads on the highway)
The mysterious Masonic Lodge Cue, W.A.
We arrived in Meekatharra just before lunch and Bob headed to the servo for a gas refill while I headed to the only tyre service in town, only to be told that there was no tyre fitter at work today and no-one else in the town could help us. Looks like we will have to wait until Capricorn or Newman to get a replacement spare. We found a shady spot for lunch before heading back up to the main street to visit the museum where Bob attempted to find information on his maternal Great Grandfather and his Grandfather, who had travelled together to Meekatharra to try their luck in the gold mines. Unfortunately Bob’s information was scant and the museum didn’t really have any records of worth.
We decided to refuel and hit the road north to the Gascoyne River (South Branch) to freecamp in the rest area there. On the way we crossed the 26th parallel and we can definitely feel the warmth increasing (it reached 28*C today). Also noticeable was the amount of wildflowers on the roadside, all steadily building up.
Our campsite at the Gascoyne River South Branch, W.A.
We reached our camp at around 4 o’clock and gathered some firewood for a nice fire for a quiet night around the campfire.
Well as we all know nothing goes quite to plan on these trips. We left Mount Magnet after refuelling and headed north along the Great Northern Highway with the intention of going to Cue and from there out to Walga Rock (extremely extensive example of aboriginal rock art painted on Australia’s second biggest monolith) and to the ghost town of Big Bell which is situated near the Big Bell Gold Mine. However, an errant set of pliers laying on the highway at a point where on coming traffic didn’t allow me to dodge it, managed to pierce the sidewall of one tyre on the rear right hand side. This means that we can’t go out on those gravel roads without a spare and Cue, with its population of 300, doesn’t have a tyre service (or much of anything else other than impressive old buildings)
The old Post Office, now the Tourist Information Centre with the Hotel in the background
We plan to head to the pub for tea tonight and we will free camp in the RV Overnight camp area at the back of the main street before moving on to Meekatharra tomorrow to get a replacement tyre. Looks like we will just have to come back here at some later time. Still, as we are well prepared, changing wheels comes relatively easy (even if it seems they get heavier as I get older)
The Masonic Lodge Cue W.A.
One unusual building is the rather grand looking Masonic Lodge, built in 1892 from corrugated iron. It was active up until 1979 when the local lodge was disbanded due to lack of membership.
Anyone know a good carpenter, needs some minor repairs.
It seems a shame that all these old buildings are quickly reaching their use by date although one entrepreneur is trying to let shops with the assurance that the owner is renovating all the shops in the building. By the look of the building from the rear lane, he may be being a little optimistic.
Poor old Mount Magnet, established as a gold mining centre since 1891, is losing its shine at a quickening rate. When we were last here it boasted a Chemist Shop, Foodworks, a seven day a week hardware shop, newsagent and cafes. Sadly the Chemist Shop is gone, the hardware shop opens at reduced hours. The newsagent /post office is still going but only one cafe remains and its temporarily closed, at least the Foodworks opens Sunday as well. Of the three hotels only one seems to operate any normal trading hours, the others looking eerily abandoned but one appears to have some accommodation available.
Sunset Mount Magnet Caravan Park W.A.
As the Cafe was our intended destination for the Big Breakfast we had to improvise and cook up bacon, eggs and baked beans for lunch. We’ve enjoyed the rest day, taking the opportunity to buy some groceries and to top up our fresh water tanks, as well as check over the vehicles before we move on tomorrow. We will head North into new territory for all of us, exploring the township of Cue and the outlying attractions of the area. Tomorrow marks three weeks on the road and we’ve ticked up about 4000 kms. to this point.
We left our camp after a night around the campfire watching distant thunderstorms to the south of us. We moved on to see Sandstone where we stopped for morning tea at the old Post Office Cafe and after coffee and cake, we booked our sites at the Mount Magnet Caravan Park for the next two nights so we could reminisce about Turtle’s demise four years ago.
The Post Office Cafe Sandstone W.A
We couldn’t get a powered site for both nights as apparently the Park is booked out tonight (what the??) but we will have power tomorrow night. We arrived in time to have lunch then it was hit the showers and do the laundry. As it’s Saturday, all the shops are shut (when I say all I mean the 4 shops) and only the Foodworks will be open tomorrow morning. Even our planned big breakfast at the cafe had to be abandoned because its closed for the month of August while Len recovers from his operation (well that’s according to the sign on the door – hope he’s doing well). I guess its feet up time and sitting in the sun with the strong breeze keeping it just right.
Another old boiler at Sandstone W.A.
Since leaving Kalgoorlie the weather has been mainly sunny in the mid 20s, although we got a sprinkle of rain while cooking tea, just enough to be a nuisance but didn’t stop us sitting out around the fire admiring the stars all night
