Making Tracks

A fully laden iron ore train leaves a trail of dust as it trundles along the Tom Price – Karratha Railway Line destined to be loaded onto bulk carriers at either Dampier or Point Samson

Oh what a day – travelling along the Hammersley Iron Railway Access Road from Tom Price to Karratha (just approximately) We travelled about 155 kilometres on a really well maintained gravel road that ran next to the railway line. We played tag with a fully laden iron ore train for probably 20 kilometres before it escaped us due to speed restrictions on the road. Its fascinating to see the cloud of iron ore dust as the train ploughs through the countryside, which in itself is spectacular. We made good time along this track and ended up having lunch at Roebourne before heading out to Cossack, Wickham and Point Samson.

“Stairway to the Moon” – from the sandfly capital of WA, Samson Point

We set up camp at the Point Samson Caravan Park before heading back to Cossack to witness that West Coast spectacle of the “Stairway to the Moon” where the full moon shining on the mud flats at low tide creates (in some peoples eyes) the stairway effect

On To Tom Price

Dales Gorge, Karajini National Park. It looks about 30 – 40 metres deep with a trickle of water coming over the Fortescue Falls. Stayed in the nearby camping ground overnight and had brief look around the National Park this morning.

We travelled all the way to Newman through the picturesque Pilbara landscape. In some respects this area is more attractive than the Kimberlies. We refuelled, had a brief look around the town and bought some supplies before heading back to Karajini National Park travelling about 160 kilometres back over the way we had come. We stayed at the Dales Gorge Camping Ground last night then visited a couple of the sites today – Dales Gorge and Weano Gorge. I guess they probably look spectacular in the wet but otherwise they’re just long holes in the ground (and I can’t bring myself to climb the 50 metres down to the bottom and back out again – what can I say, I’m not fit). We left Karajini and headed into Tom Price for lunch and a look around. We found out that we can take the railway access road from Tom Price through to Karratha which is a well maintained gravel road – we just needed to view an induction video and apply for the free access permit. We decided on that note that it was July so we had better have a shower and booked into the very exclusive Tom Price Caravan Park ( you must have money to get in).

Made it to Marble Bar

Jenny and Melva perched in the Marble Bar at Marble Bar Pool, Marble Bar if you get what I mean

Left De Greys River free camp at around 8.30 and travelled the picturesque route down to Marble Bar. The drive starts out with wretched plains of poor quality flore and transforms into iron hore hills and gorges, something that I never realised existed in the Pilbara. We caught up with the Coopers in Marble Bar itself, they were refuelling when we arrived so we ended up leading them out to the sites that included the old Comet Gold Mine. the Flying fox Lookout and the Marble Bar and Chinaman Pools.

After all that activity we went to the pub (The Ironclad Hotel) that features in the Lipton Tea adv. and had lunch and a beer before heading back to Port Hedland. The Coopers went their own way in what I suspect maybe a very quiet car (trouble in paradise). They are apparently going to head straight back home. Meanwhile we checked out Port Hedland briefly (the size of the iron ore trains is absolutely incredible), refuelled then headed out to a free camp 40 kms out of town. We intend to head towards Newman and the Karajinni National Park tomorrow.

FREE CAMP 90 KMS FROM PORT HEDLAND

The Mother of Pearl Altar and surrounds at St Mary’s Beagle Bay. The Granddaughter of one the ladies who carried out the intricate inlay was at the church explaining the different symbolism that her grandmother had taught her.

We made the trip into Cape Leveque along an absolutely smashed road. We caught up with the Coopers in at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm and later back at camp at Roebuck Plains Roadhouse Caravan Park. We managed to rattle the top off the Drambuie (which was shaking around so much it even managed to spill out the cupboard even though it was still upright!) – that explained why Jenny was licking the floor all night : ) It rattled the screws out of the shower door, the top off my coffee pot and the enthusiasm for corrugated red roads out of the pair of us.

We left at 8ish this morning with the Coopers bringing up the rear. They caught up again at Spitfire Roadhouse just as we were leaving. We refuelled at Pardoo Roadhouse before making our way here – I just love all these exotic sounding names. My in car camera was rattled into submission so I have had to do a complete reboot on that and thankfully it seems to be working again. Tomorrow we are off to Marble Bar – nobody mention the heat.

Cable Beach

No prizes for guessing which one is the camel. Jenny and her German backpacker starting the Cable Beach camel ride.

We did a Town Tour this morning which was very informative and gave us the opportunity to visit a few sites we may not have visited otherwise. After lunch we just got things ready for take off tomorrow – filling the water tanks, stowing gear, before heading out to buy some supplies and then heading up to Cable Beach. Ah the joys of watching the wonder of nature as the sun goes down, glistening on the 500 4wd parked on the beach. Jenny enjoyed her camel ride then we sat and waited for the sun to go  down before heading back to camp.

Off to Cape Leveque tomorrow and Jenny has just heard from Melva that the Coopers will also be heading down there and heading down the coast on Sunday the same as we had planned…

Bustling Broome

Broome Jetty. A cruise ship was due in today and the locals were meant to be putting a special market on in Chinatown. Either the cruise ship didn’t arrive (we never spotted it) or they didn’t bother with the market.

Spent the better part of the day in the town centre today, checking out the shops and meeting up with the Coopers for coffee. Did over the pearl shops (bought nothing, stunning jewelry and equally stunning prices), art galleries and kitchenware (its so special in Broome). Later we checked out a camping store and still couldn’t buy anything. The Town Beach market is on tonight but, according to our bus driver from yesterday, the food stalls are the only good thing.

The town was certainly busy with tourists. According to one source the population of Broome is around 12 to 17 thousand but it swells to 60 thousand in the peak period. Cafe and bar prices reflect central city locations and all the caravan parks are full with a constant turnover of recreational vehicles entering and leaving the town area. Personally I don’t see the attraction other than the tourist brochure shots and must sees. I’d rather somewhere like Derby where you get to meet the locals.

Willies Creek Pearls

A pearl extracted from the oyster during the demonstration at Willies Creek Pearl Farm

Made our contribution to the Broome tourist industry by going on a tour of the Willies Creek Pearl Farm. The tour included lunch and a complimentary drink (but no complimentary pearl) Interesting presentation with plenty of tactile experiences made for a worthwhile tour. Even got to see one of Nigel’s girlfriends (Nigel being the 4 metre crocodile that frequents Willies Creek and Cable Beach area)

Naturally Jenny succumbed to the charm of the Pearl Shop even though she explictly told me you don’t buy pearls there.

Arrived in Broome

From our caravan park looking back toward the Port of Broome

Short run of 110 kilometres today. We pulled into a roadside stop and Jenny was able to get onto the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park and get a booking for 4 nights. We called into the Visitors’ Information Centre and got all the pamphlets that we could carry before heading to the Caravan Park to set up and start the ring round of making bookings. Jenny got a text from the Coopers to say that they had a puncture in their caravan tyre and had to stop at Halls Creek today to get it repaired. Its quite windy here but warm. Facilities are old but clean.

We reach Nillibubbica Rest Area

Turning left at the intersection!! The first time we have been on this portion of road. Nillibubbica Rest Area is another 74 kms south.

Made relatively good time today. We left Marys Pool Rest Area at about 9.00 am after a sleep in. By the time we departed probably 80% of the overnighters had already left so we just ambled south. We reached Fitzroy Crossing in time for lunch – still no iced coffee so we only bought bread and fuel before continuing on to Nillibubbica Rest Area which is about 109 kms north of Broome. Another popular free camp but with us on our lonesome it was easy to find a spot and set up for the night. a big variety of vehicles and travellers made an interesting night. Had our usual couple of wines and a port. Laurie rang to say they were north of Halls Creek.

Onto Halls Creek

Our camp at the Mary’s Pool Free Camp – trying to cool the freezer off – its a balmy 28 degrees

We left Keep River National Park around 8.30. Got checked out at the Kunnunurra Quarantine Checkpoint (there goes our one and only potato) so went into Kunnunnurra to do some fresh fruit and vegie shopping. Everything was shut up tight because it was Sunday. Refuelled and headed to Halls Creek in the hope of getting an iced coffee for afternoon tea. Sadly same rules apply at Halls Creek nothing available except fuel so we kept on going to the free camp at Mary’s Pool. We’re thinking we will have a late start tomorrow as I want to go over the vehicle to make sure everything is working properly.