Southern Cross in our Sights

Wildflowers at Newcarlbeon Rock W.A

We woke to another sunny day if a little windy. No frost this morning and we soon left this lovely little spot behind. We headed back to Korda then onto Mukinbuddin for morning tea before ambling through more wheat fields stopping for lunch just past Bullfinch (we were reluctant to stop in the “town”, I thought I could hear banjos and pigs squealing but I may well be wrong). From there through still more wheat fields and arriving in Southern Cross early which was fortunate as the Agricultural Show is on tomorrow and we wanted to stay in a caravan park to do our laundry and have a shower. We are on the last available sites so all is well.

Sunset around the campfire at Newcarlbeon Rock W.A
Unusual cloud formation illuminated by a waxing moon, Newcarlbeon Rock W.A

Tonight we will have a quiet drink in camp before deciding how far we will go tomorrow but its looking like we will be heading back across the Nullarbor earlier than expected. We all decided that the attractions of southern W.A. didn’t outweigh the colder weather so we may as well look to head home, perhaps having a little side detour along the way.

Our campsite at Southern Cross W.A., not quite the same ambience as last night

Through the Wheat Belt

Light playing on the native grasses Koojan Salmon Gum Reserve W.A.

We left Koojan and headed straight to New Norcia (with some trepidation among the group – see New Norcia Benedictine community among worst child sex abuse perpetrators ). My tolerance for their misdeeds evaporated when I saw the pamphlets in the Visitor Centre extolling safeguarding children within the church, yet not a mention of their history. We did a self guided tour around the only monastic town in Australia, viewing the extensive, expensive buildings of the community. The romantic notions of the monastic life disappear when faced with the reality of stolen children and the approximately 350 children who died there over the years and the fact that there approximately 250 unmarked/missing graves of those children.

The boys “Orphanage”, New Norcia W.A.
Another of the grand buildings New Norcia W.A.

We left the town with a distinct feeling of sadness and made our way toward Wongan Hills where we had lunch and refuelled. The town boasts an agricultural research property and appears to be a relatively well off community. It’s amazing the vastness of the wheatbelt in this area. For the last few days we have been driving through rolling fields of Canola with their vibrant yellow flowers, fields of Lucerne and fields of wheat on either side of the road. Today we were driving through undulating country that had cereal crops all the way to the horizon and when we reached that horizon it continued to the next. They have extensive large scale infrastructure to cope with all the grain – vast silos and a network of railway lines.

We decided to head back to the bush for tonight’s camp, it will probably be the last camp on the edge of the wheatbelt before we start thinking about heading east again. The weather had been balmy although this morning the temperature had dropped to 2 degrees but that meant we’ve had glorious sunshine all day. Tonight looks like it may be cold again so we will enjoy another night around the campfire while admiring the stars at Newcarlbeon Rocks Picnic Area.

Our camp among the gum trees 20kms north Korda W.A.

Three Springs to Koojan

Sunset at Three Springs Oval W.A.

We had a nice night around the fire and headed to bed a bit later than usual. The freecamp was excellent, with clean toilets and showers. Quite a few RVs spent the night, including a couple that we had “bumped into“ at Ceduna while waiting for Turtle’s new alternator. Fortunately they didn’t recognise us (what? Who can miss Turtle) so we didn’t have to entertain them again (a long story involving uninvited guests and campsite intrusions). This morning we headed south again.

We travelled at a leisurely pace, calling into the McPherson Homestead at Carnamah.

The imposing MacPherson’s Homestead Carnamah W.A.

The homestead was the home of Duncan and Mary Macpherson who settled in Carnamah with their children in 1868. The Macpherson’s established a pastoral station named Carnamah, and during their 70-year residence their homestead was known as Carnamah House.

https://www.carnamah.com.au/homestead
The shady verandah for scale Carnamah W.A.

From there we continued south until we reached the Jingemia Cave in the Watheroo National Park. We entered via the unsaved road from the Midlands Road and it was pretty obvious this isn’t a popular point of interest as the road was in excellent shape. The stone formations around the cave were very attractive, home to many varieties of wildflowers. We spent quite some time walking around the trails and enjoying the setting.

Some of the rock formations
One of the delicate flowers amidst the bush at Jingemia Cave
The actual cave at Jingemia (devil’s hole in the local dialect)

We moved on to the Koojan Salmon Gum Reserve to set up camp for tonight for a freecamp among the gum trees.

Just a Meandering Day

No big plans for today. We just decided to travel between towns enjoying the landscape, wildflowers and the few little towns we came across. We stopped at Mingenew for morning tea and a visit to the local bakery before moving on to Morawa for a lunch stop and a walk through the town. It’s much like the Mallee in Victoria, all these large cereal farms only have a bare minimum of workers and the surrounding towns just die. Still the towns here are very neat and tidy.

Our campsite at Three Springs W.A.

We moved onto Three Springs and discovered that there is a freecamp at the oval where you can have a 72 hour stopover and has toilets and showers available for a donation. We decided to join the myriad of other grey gonads to spend the night here (we can even have a fire!)

Left Turn at Geraldton

Sunset with moon, Overland Roadhouse, Hamelin Pool W.A.

We left the Overland Roadhouse after a night and morning of strong, cold winds. The wind was extremely strong as we headed south only abating just before Geraldton. The terrain along this section of road is quite dismal, the wind not helping. A lot more tourist vehicles along this section of road. We refuelled in Geraldton then headed out along the Geraldton – Mount Magnet road toward Mullewa.

Our roadside camp east of Mullewa W.A.

We stopped at a roadside rest area to set up camp. It was not the greatest camp, to close to the road to light a fire and close enough to the road and railway line that we could hear all the train and road train movements during the night. We didn’t stay out to long, the temperature dropped dramatically, and we had witnessed another batch of Starlink satellites pass over (14 in totals).

Heading Back Down

We left Gascoyne Junction after a brief drive around the town. They have excellent facilities, no doubt provided as part of the 2010 flood recovery. The whole township was relocated after that flood and they now have a brand new sports field, primary school and caravan park come tavern.

The Carnarvon Foreshore View

We made our way back to Carnarvon to refuel and have lunch by the foreshore again, before heading back south toward Geraldton. We crossed the 26th Parallel again so we’re officially out of the North West of Australia. We continued down to the Overland Roadhouse where you can freecamp on unpowered sites (well, bare red dirt actually) we will stay here tonight and then start meandering back inland from Geraldton. A real treat tonight – roadhouse means chips, so its eggs, chips and sausages for dinner tonight. Life is wonderful.

Our camp at the Overland Roadhouse, Hamelin Pool, W.A.

Victory

We headed straight down to Carnarvon in the hope of finding the elusive spare tyre. We arrived at 11.30 and fortunately the Tyre Service was open and had the right sized tyre. We were back on the road in half an hour. We had lunch on the foreshore before heading out to Gascoyne Junction, approximately 160 kms inland. Interesting new territory, mainly cattle country. The caravan park is surprisingly modern and up to date. Probably due to the 2010 floods which wiped out the old township, so all the roads and buildings are pretty much new. This is a stopping point for people heading out to the Mount Augustus National Park. Unfortunately its several hundred kilometres of unsaved roads out to there and back and we aren’t really prepared for that type of stuff this trip.

Onwards and Downwards

The nightlights at Paraburdoo Camp

We left our roadside camp and headed into Paraburdoo then continued out to the North west Coastal Highway, travelling over roads we hadn’t been on before. The views were spectacular, The Pilbara is such a beautiful part of Australia. A lot less traffic on this section of road and we got to have morning tea surrounded by picture scenery. We refuelled at Nanutarra Roadhouse before continuing south, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn heading south.

It was a long day of driving till we got to our camp at Lyndon River Rest Area Freecamp. It was a beautiful night and we sat watching the stars in balmy weather. No need for a fire tonight!

A balmy night at Lyndon River, W.A.

Onto Tom Price

We left Newman after doing a bit of grocery shopping and continued north to Tom Price. This area of the Pilbara is always spectacular, particularly when you turn onto Karijini Way, the hills are just something else. Combined with the ghost gums along the roadside it looks like an Albert Namatjira painting.

Our lunchtime view, south east of Tom Price

We had a roadside stop for lunch and the view was just spectacular. We moved on to Tom Price in the hope of finding that elusive replacement tyre but to no avail. All we could do is refuel and head out the road for a roadside camp approximately 40 kms west of Paraburdoo. We will see what awaits us there.

Our roadside camp, 40kms west of Paraburdoo, W.A.

Not Much Action at Newman

As our pursuit of a replacement spare tyre had failed in Meekatharra, we decided to head to Newman from our camp on the Gascoyne. Sadly it was to no avail as all three tyre services didn’t have the correct size tyre and it would take at least a week for one to be freighted in. This doesn’t really suit so we will keep trying every tyre service we come across. I suspect it will be easier to find one on the coast road as there are more Sprinter and VW motorhomes along that road.

Our view last night at The Gascoyne River South Branch

We decided to stay at the “caravan park” on the edge of Newman. It has shower facilities and a laundry etcetera and I’m in definite need after scurrying around under the van extracting the spare tyre (which was also covered in brake dust) besides it’s our wedding anniversary today so it will be nice to have some comforts. We don’t have power or grass, so I guess the toilet and shower are our luxuries for tonight.

Our view tonight from Yurlu Caravan Park, Overflow B

Back on the road tomorrow, heading for Tom Price